Pet Bird Care

PET BIRD CARE SHEET

HOUSING

Purchase a large cage for housing the bird. Birds thrive in large cages, so opt for the largest cage that your housing space can accommodate. A general rule of thumb is that the width of the cage should be at least twice the wingspan of your bird. For some birds, being able to fly short distances within the cage may be an important part of ensuring it has a healthy living space. Some other fairly standard requirements include:

- The cage bars should not be too small; the bird's talons might get caught on or in them if the bar wires or lengths are too small. Equally, the bars should not be so large that the head of the bird could get trapped or the bird could squeeze through and escape.

- The bigger the space in the cage, the better. Although bird cages that are bigger tend to be harder to clean and are more expensive, if you are not in the house often or don't have time to take the bird out for exercise, space in their cage is critical. Small cages can lead to behaviour problems.

Ensure that placement of the cage is somewhere warm and comfortable. Cages should be kept indoors, and in a room with frequent traffic. Birds are social animals and will become unhappy if isolated in a room. Also remember that you'll be cleaning out the cage frequently, so position it somewhere that you can access easily.

- Birds in cages on wheels can be transported outdoors to sit under a porch or similar place for daytime fresh air. Always remember to bring the bird back in before cool evening breezes and night air arrive.

- The location of the bird's cage will also be affected by the bird's personality. While a very social bird might love being the centre of attention and seeing constant human traffic, a more nervous bird might be happier kept somewhere quieter and away from hustle and bustle (but still being able to interact with the family). Nervous birds may do better in the corner of a room or in an area with the back of their cage partially covered.

- Avoid placing a cage in front of a window permanently. The bird will be on the constant lookout for “enemies,” which can cause it to feel nervous. Putting a cage against a wall can give the bird a break from worrying about predators.

FEEDING

Give your bird varied types of food daily. As a rule of thumb, a healthy diet for most bird breeds consists of 75% pellets and 25% human table foods. Offer a good variety and over time, you'll begin to see patterns emerging in the types of food that your bird prefers.

- Ensure that you have correct feed for the species of bird. You must find the correct food for your bird, as some birds are picky, while others have very strict dietary requirements. Usually, the bag of food will have a label telling you which breed of bird it is for.

- Bird pellets and crumbles as opposed to seed can be a good way of ensuring adequate nutrition for your bird. These tend to combine healthy seeds, vegetables, fruits, and grains, so the bird can eat a nutritionally balanced diet. These are preferable to a seed mix, which allows birds to pick out tasty seeds and leave the healthy ones behind.

- Treats such as nuts and dried fruits should only make up a small portion of your bird's diet and should be given in moderation. Generally, treats for birds should be given no more than once a day. birds will work hard to get treats, which is why they are excellent rewards for training. 

- If feeding seed give new seed daily; always empty out the eaten shells the same day too, as this keeps the seed fresh and clean.

- Ensure you always provide your bird with cuttlefish and/or shell grit. This is a great source of calcium and will help keep your bird happy and healthy. It can also be gnawed at for quite a while and will help keep their beak in good condition.

Give your bird fresh fruits and vegetables every day or 2. This adds greens and variety to their diet. A mixture or variety of foods is both healthy and fun for birds. Cut up and serve your bird a variety of fruits and veggies, including oranges, berries, spinach, and celery. You can also give your bird nuts and cooked beans for flavour and variety with their meals.

WATER

Provide constant fresh water. There should be a water dish provided; fill this daily with average temperature water. Give your bird water in a large, shallow dish, since birds can struggle to drink out of deep dishes. Change water daily to ensure that it is always fresh.

- Place the water dish at the opposite end of the bird's cage from the food dish. This will force them to move around and be active to eat and drink.

- Dehydration can occur very quickly in birds, within 1 to 2 days without access to water.

ENRICHMENT

Pet birds are not meant to be simply locked in a cage and forgotten about. These are remarkably intelligent, curious, and unique creatures, and they simply won’t cope without mental stimulation.

This is where environmental enrichment comes into play. Environmental enrichment is all about creating a space for your bird that encourages them to stay active and exercise their minds. This is crucial for your pet’s health and happiness as it prevents boredom, makes each day interesting and exciting, and helps them stay in shape.

Bored parrots can engage in all manner of destructive behaviour — from feather plucking to messing up their cage — so it’s in your own best interests to provide plenty of environmental enrichment for your pet.

Ideas include:

• Toys (chew toys, interactive puzzle toys, foraging toys)
• Perches
• Ladders and climbing toys
• Swings
• Mirrors
• Baths
• Hiding spots

Rotating your pet’s toys regularly can help prevent boredom becoming a problem, while it’s also essential to ensure that any toys you choose are made from bird-safe, non-toxic materials.

Of course, you can also provide enrichment that’s outside the cage. For example, your parrot may enjoy watching TV with you or having their cage placed somewhere they can feel like an integral part of family activities. However, be aware that they will often also need to be able to retreat to a quieter, less stimulating environment whenever they want.

HYGIENE

Clean the cage daily. A clean cage reduces the changes for bacterial, fungal, or viral infections from occurring in your bird. Regular removal of bird droppings is very important for maintaining good bird health. A bird living in a clean environment tends to be a more active and happy bird than one living in filth. To keep the cage clean:

- Change the bedding regularly.

- Remove droppings from perches/toys.

- Remove uneaten food that has been sitting around on the base of the cage.

- If your bird is moulting (this is common with parrots, for example), there will be a need to vacuum up the moulted feathers daily; this tends to occur when there is a warm spell.

- Only clean with basic, non-toxic cleaning supplies. Birds are easily poisoned, so find out if a product is safe for birds before using it.

MONITORING YOUR BIRDS HEALTH

Some birds are more than capable of concealing the signs and symptoms that they are unwell. While this is an important defence mechanism in the wild, it means that health problems can often go undetected.

That’s why, as a pet parent, it’s up to you to keep a close eye on your feathered friend and recognize the signs they’re not at 100%. Signs of illness to look for include:

• Changes in their droppings
• Fluffed or messy feathers
• Loss of appetite
• Change in drinking habits
• Behavioural changes
• Weakness or lethargy
• Drooping on their perch
• Breathing difficulties
• Vomiting
• Weight loss or gain

If you notice any of these signs, get your bird to an avian vet for a check-up.

HANDLING

Proper handling is essential to your bird’s health and wellbeing, and to the bond you and your pet share. If you can get them used to being handled from a young age, it’ll produce a wide range of benefits later in life.

Once your bird knows the “step up” command, they’ll be a whole lot easier in any given situation — whether you’re trying to help them escape a dangerous situation, getting them examined by a veterinarian, or just cleaning their cage. At the same time, you’ll also be able to handle your bird without causing them any harm.

The best approach is to get them used to being handled every day. Patience is important here as you’ll need to start off by letting your bird get used to your presence. Talk to them gently and, if they’re calm and relaxed, start by handfeeding them a treat or 2 while they’re in their cage.

Over time, you can graduate to putting your finger out for them to step onto. Say “step up” and reward them with a treat when they step onto your finger. With a bit of repetition and a softly, softly approach on your part, your bird will soon become “finger tame.”

Remember a few other tips to safely handle your bird:

- Don’t rush the process as this will only frighten your pet.

- Don’t try to grab your bird — this will frighten them and could also cause an injury.

- Keep a close eye on their body language for warning signs that they’re uncomfortable and may be about to bite.

- Not all birds appreciate human contact, so recognize the signs that they’re uncomfortable and don’t try to force them into a stressful situation.

It may take time and plenty of patience, but your bird should eventually be comfortable being handled out of the cage.

Alternatively, you can purchase a hand-reared bird and all the hard work is already done for you!

Hand reared means that the baby birds are taken out of the nest soon after hatching or ideally the eggs are incubated and then hand-reared by the breeder.

Generally, hand-reared birds make ideal pets, being calmer around people and easier to tame than those raised by their parents. Many actively seek out human companionship, stimulation and, indeed, may prefer people to their own species. They tend to be less stressed by changes in their environments and novel objects or animals and are more easily taught to perform tricks and imitate words.

SHOPPING LIST

- Cage

- Seed mix or quality pellets

- Cuttlefish

- Other treats

- Floor covering

- Vitamin & mineral supplement

- Grit

- Bath

- Toys 

- Millet

- Water and seed bowls