Python Hatchling Care

PYTHON HATCHLING CARE SHEET

HOUSING-

Python hatchies are very easy to care for in their first 12 months of life as they do not require a full-sized vivarium immediately. Young snakes are small and tend to hide more than settled, adult pythons. Providing a home that is also small where the python can thermo-regulate and reach water easily is recommended. A small, limited environment provides security for young pythons who could possibly be overwhelmed by a large enclosure. In the wild they will often find a tight-fitting crevice where they will hunt from, bask from and live. It’s very hard to replicate this in a large vivarium and most often the baby python will seek out security over the need for warmth. In turn they will stop feeding. For this reason, small T2 glass tanks or Reptile One Your First Hatchling Kit 30X20X16Cm 46200 are ideal to give the pythons warmth and a feeling of security. Their instinct is that open space is full of predators such as birds and other reptiles. The other advantage of a small tank is they are escape proof. Small pythons are escape artists and can fit through the smallest of gaps!

HEATING-

Popular heating methods for hatchies are heat cords and heat mats. If you only have the one snake however, you could stick with a heat mat. Both will achieve the desired effect of heating. It’s important that heat mats have air flow, as they have been known to burn if they are sandwiched and too much heat is built up.                           All heating must go into a thermostat and you want to provide heating to ~33 Degrees Celsius. The thermostat probe can sit inside your tub on the floor where the heat is being supplied or you can secure the probe direct to the heat mat and adjust the thermostat to reach the desired temperature inside the tub on the hot spot (use your thermometer to gauge this).                                  Heating should span about 30% of the floor of the tub.

WATER-

Pythons always need access to fresh water. Providing a sturdy bowl that is just big enough for the python to enter its entire body into and placed on the cool side of the tub is perfect. The water should be changed every few days. If you notice your python drinking after providing fresh water, you have probably not changed it often enough.

FEEDING-

Young pythons that are new to your home should be left alone and not handled or offered food for around 5 – 7 days. This allows it time to adjust to its new surroundings and work out any stress it might be in from the environmental change. Offer thawed food via tongs (mouse head facing python) and gently jiggle a few inches from the python’s head or in front of the hide hole if it is not out and about. If the python immediately retreats or seems stressed, you can leave the rodent in the tub with the python overnight in the hopes that it will eat when less stressed. Good signs that your python will eat are immediate stillness followed by non-stop scenting with its tongue. Be patient. If it doesn’t eat first go, leave the rodent in overnight. If it’s there in the morning, try again the following week and continue the ‘no handling’ rule. (Not removing the rodent, the next morning can result in a very unpleasant odour that afternoon!)   Most snakes should be fed a size of prey that is about the same size around as the snake's body at its widest point. This means that as a snake grows, you will have to adjust the size of the prey fed to the snake to accommodate the snake's increasing size.

SHEDDING-

Pythons shed their skins in order to grow. Signs of shedding are:

• Increased hiding
• Bathing/submerging in water bowl
• Defensive behaviour
• Reduced interest in food
• Changes in colour of skin and eyes

The python should not be handled or fed during this time as shedding their skins can be uncomfortable and the change to the ocular scale reduces their ability to see clearly.  Most shedding pythons won’t be interested in food, but not offering food to especially piggy specimens during this time is recommended – removing a loose skin is easier without a nice big lump in the middle. Shedding begins with the python rubbing its nose to loosen the skin.

As a python keeper it’s important to learn the signs of when the snake is about to enter the shed cycle. Knowing when it is going into shed means we know when to leave it alone. Generally, from the time we notice the milky eyes, the snake will shed in 5-7 days. Though sometimes as long as 10 days. A python in ideal conditions will shed its skin in one big, long piece. If it is coming off in many pieces, it would indicate the python is a bit dehydrated and moisture/humidity levels of the enclosure may need to be monitored and adjusted. A digital hygrometer will measure humidity, and usually levels between high 30’s and low 40’s is fine.

SHOPPING LIST-

- Small T2 glass tanks or Reptile One Your First Hatchling Kit     30X20X16Cm 46200                                                                                                                     

- Heat mat                                                                                                                        

- Hide                                                                                                                     

- Feeding tongs                                                                                               

 - Water dish                                                                                                             

- Snake hook if you desire                                                                                          

- Frozen prey                                                                                                       

- Thermostat                                                                                                

- Thermometer