Bearded Dragon Care

BEARDED DRAGON CARE SHEET

 

DO I NEED A LICENCE?

Yes, before you become a bearded dragon parent you must obtain at least a basic Victorian wildlife licence, you can do so on this website- www.vic.gov.au/private-wildlife-licences#prepare-your-application

HOUSING:

Bearded dragons are active, sun-loving reptiles that spend considerable time basking each day. Dragons are solitary animals and should be housed on their own, otherwise you will face dominance and aggression issues between dragons.

For one adult central bearded dragon a glass or timber enclosure of at least 120x45x60cm is required. It is important that the enclosure has plenty of ventilation as well as a secure, lockable door.

The enclosure can be furnished with basking logs and rocks, a background, artificial plants and water and feed dishes. An absorbent substrate is also important such as a reptile safe desert sand or wood chip.

CARE:

Providing adequate temperature gradients within a dragon’s enclosure is essential for their health and wellbeing. Bearded dragons require a hot basking spot maintained between 38-42˚C. They should have access to an elevated piece of timber or rock ornament to allow them to bask within 15-20cm of the heat source. The cool end of the enclosure should be maintained between 24-26˚C and should not drop below 18˚C at night.

Temperatures should be monitored daily and must be regulated with the use of a good quality thermostat. We recommend using 100w halogen globes as a heat source during the day. Ceramic heat globes are suitable for night-time heating. 

Ultraviolet light (UV) plays an important role in a dragon’s growth and development. A 10-14% T5 UVB tube must be used as a source of artificial UV lighting in the dragon’s enclosure. Dragons should also have access to unfiltered, natural light at least once or twice a week. They also require a ‘day and night’ cycle with heat and UV lights running for approximately 10-12 hours each day, set on a timer.

It is important to maintain high standards of cleanliness and hygiene within the dragon’s enclosure. Daily ‘spot checks’ should be carried out, sifting substrate to remove any faeces, shed skin or uneaten food. A full substrate change should be carried out every 2-3 months (depending on what substrate is used) and the enclosure thoroughly cleaned with a reptile-safe disinfectant.

DIET:

Bearded dragons are omnivores and feed on a range of live insects and plant matter. In captivity bearded dragons should be fed a variety of both live foods and fruits and vegetables. Juvenile dragons will generally consume more live food than vegetables with adult dragons consuming more vegetables.

Live foods for bearded dragons include crickets, woodies, mealworms (in moderation) and silkworms. All live foods should be dusted with a calcium and multivitamin powder before being offered. Live insects should be no larger than the space between the lizard’s eyes. Fruits and vegetables for bearded dragons that can be offered include kale, endive, parsley, Asian greens, apple, carrot, beans, broccoli, zucchini and squash. Lizard pellets can also be mixed through the chopped fruits and vegetables to provide extra nutrition to the dragon. Juvenile dragons should be fed daily (live food twice daily for very young hatchlings) and adults can be offered food every second day.

Fresh water should be always available to the dragon and changed daily. Young hatchlings also enjoy a very light misting of water on hot days in summer and often drink droplets of water off ornaments in the enclosure.

 

COMMON HEALTH ISSUES:

Intestinal Parasites (worms): Bearded Dragons are susceptible to worms, including the potentially fatal coccidiosis organism. Faecal checks and worming can be carried out by an experienced reptile veterinarian.

Dysecdysis (Abnormal Shedding): Low humidity levels can sometimes result in a dragon having an ‘incomplete’ shed.

Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD): Calcium or vitamin D3 deficiency because of incorrect diet and/or lack of or incorrect UV lighting.

SHOPPING LIST:

  • Enclosure; 120 x 45 x 60cm
  • Water bowl
  • Feed dish
  • Substrate
  • Basking logs
  • Artificial plants
  • Heat fitting and globe
  • UV fitting and tube
  • Thermostat
  • Thermometer
  • Timer
  • Reptile disinfectant
  • Live food
  • Lizard pellets
  • Calcium and multivitamin powder
  • Cricket keeper
  • Fruit and vegetables

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