Scorpion Care

SCORPION CARE SHEET

FLINDERS RANGES SCORPION - This scorpion lives in gullies and hillsides within the Flinders Ranges of South Australia. This is one of the largest scorpions in Australia with males growing in excess of 10 cm from mouth to tip of sting. The females are generally a bit shorter although more robust. As with most species of Urodacus, mating and moulting occurs in the early stages of the arriving warm weather and progeny are born in later summer, early autumn.

RAINFOREST SCORPION - This scorpion’s common habitats are rock crevices, between rocks and the soil in shallow scrapes or rock crevices covered in rotting leaf matter but they may also be found beneath bark on fallen rotting logs and under rotting, solidifying leaf matter - usually on rock surfaces. Their flattened body shape is ideal for these locations.  It is found commonly in Queensland rainforests.  They grow to around 6 cm and are impressive looking scorpions.

SIZE:

They will grow 5-10cm depending on species.

LIFE SPAN:

They can live from 5-12 years depending on species.

HOUSING:

Scorpions are best housed by themselves in a small terrarium, but a large terrarium will comfortably house a pair or trio of Scorpions. Our Reptile One T2 terrariums are ideal as they have fully ventilated lids which allows for good air circulation.  They do not need to be very high but should be 30- 45cm in length. As we recommend housing scorpions alone, having a cage that is too large is a waste of space. The scorpion’s terrarium can be decorated with a cave hide, artificial plants for a more natural look. Small natural wood ornaments look very effective and provide further perches for the scorpion.
For substrate we recommend red desert sand/coco peat mix. Your substrate should be 10-15 cm thick and will need to be misted with water regularly to ensure it does not dry out. 

HEATING AND HUMIDITY:

Scorpions require 60-90% humidity. This can be maintained by keeping the substrate moist.

Scorpions can be heated. This is best achieved by way of using a heat cord or heat pad to cover a portion of the base of the cage.

Only 1/3 of the enclosure should be covered by your heat source to ensure that your scorpions do not overheat.  20 - 30 Celsius is a good temperature gradient to aim for. 

All in all, scorpions are quite robust and can tolerate a wide range of temperatures.

FEEDING AND WATER:

One to two crickets should be left roaming the base of the enclosure for your scorpions to eat at all times.  Do not put too many crickets in at the same time as they can annoy your scorpion, especially when shedding.

Unlike reptiles, scorpions have no bones, so there is no need to dust the insects you feed scorpions with calcium or other supplement dust as you may do for reptiles.

While scorpions don't drink much water, they still need to have it around. As a result, you should keep a very shallow dish (1 inch/2.5 centimetres or less) full of clean water in the enclosure. Make sure the water does not flood the substrate.

COMMON MISTAKES:

•Handling; scorpions should never be handled, there is much risk to the scorpion and the person may also be stung, scorpions lack emotions and receive no benefit from handling.
Scorpions sting but are not considered dangerous. First aid for a sting is to apply a cold pack and to seek medical aid if pain persists.  

• Scorpions not eating: Do not panic if your scorpion hasn’t eaten in a while, sometimes they simply refuse food or may be about to moult. Scorpions can go many months without food.

SHOPPING LIST:

• Enclosure; 25 x 25 x 25cm minimum
• Substrate, red desert sand and coco peat
• Cave hide
• Artificial plants
• Misting spray bottle
• Heat mat
• Feeding tongs
• Crickets
• Shallow water dish