Axolotl Care

AXOLOTL CARE SHEET

The axolotl is definitely a unique pet, a type of salamander that is completely aquatic. Unlike most salamanders, they do not undergo metamorphosis from larval to adult form where breathing changes from gills to lungs. Instead, they remain aquatic their entire life. Thus, they are not pets you handle, but they can be quite entertaining to watch. They are relatively easy to care for and hardy, which makes them suitable for beginner pet owners. Plus, their dietary needs are fairly straightforward.

HOUSING:

Axolotls will require a minimum tank size of 60cm (2ft) in length. They are best kept solitary, but if you’re wanting to house more than one axolotl, a general rule of thumb is 60cm for your first axolotl, and 30cm thereafter for each axolotl e.g. a tank housing two axolotls would be 90cm in length (60cm + 30cm). This allows them room to swim around and exercise.

If multiple axolotls are going to be kept in the same aquarium they will need to be of the same sex (males will overbreed with females and cause undue stress).

As axolotls are a cold-water species their required temperature range is between 14˚C and 18˚C, it is vital to maintain low temperatures for them to thrive (heat stress is the number one cause of health problems with axolotls).

Your aquarium should be either bare base (no substrate) or a layer of fine sand can be used (normal aquarium gravel or pebbles are not suitable for axolotls as the axolotl will ingest the gravel / pebbles and it will cause internal compaction issues). Rocks and driftwood can be used inside the tank for hiding places and caves.

Live plants can be used, however they should be strong and well planted as axolotls love to sit amongst them.

Axolotls are nocturnal and have no eyelids to protect them from bright light, so ideally they should be kept in normal daylight for 10-12 hours a day with adequate shelter provided.

MAINTAINING GOOD WATER QUALITY:

Water chemistry is the most important aspect of keeping your pet axolotl happy and thriving and is best maintained through regular testing and an aquarium filter.

Unfortunately, most filters will not pick up large solids, such as uneaten or regurgitated food, so food waste should be removed from the tank after each feed as it can cause infection. Uneaten or regurgitated food, as well as waste, can contribute to high ammonia and nitrite levels and aquarium water should be tested weekly using water-quality test kits. A pH range of 6.8-7.4 is the desired level, although closer to 7.0 is preferred.

 Unlike most fish, axolotls do not have scales which makes them more sensitive to multiple factors in an aquarium (ammonia and nitrite burn, medications, acidic or alkaline pH, aquarium salt, aloe vera products etc). To avoid health problems, the aquarium will need constant high water quality which is achieved through the use of good filtration (external canister filter ideally) regular water testing and a regular maintenance schedule.

We recommend a weekly 25% partial water change along with weekly water testing of pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate.

DIET:

Axolotls are carnivores, requiring a meat-based diet. They should be fed a diet of frozen axolotl blocks and bloodworms, as well as axolotl pellets. Ideally, they should be fed a varied diet, however they can sometimes be fussy. Live feeder fish can also be fed on occasion and are a great source of nutrition and exercise.

It is recommended that axolotls are hand fed using tongs or large tweezers as this reduces the amount of waste and uneaten food in the tank. They should be fed daily, and preferably fed at night due to their nocturnal habits.

Axolotls generally swallow their food whole so it is important that care is taken to ensure they are being fed ‘bite size’ pieces.

SHOPPING LIST:

• Tank a minimum of 2ft. Lights and heater not needed as axolotls are nocturnal and cold water animals.
• Filter, air sponge or canister (air stone is optional).
• Accessories: a hide, some large stones or ornaments, plants (real or plastic)
• Large net
• Water conditioner
• Water test kit
• Aquarium gravel vacuum for water changes,
• Sand is an option for substrate if you don’t want to go bare bottom - DO NOT buy gravel for your tank – axolotls eat it and it can kill them)

Axolotl Salt Bath Guide

Why Salt Bath An Axolotl?

Salt baths are a treatment for axolotls suffering from skin conditions such as a fungal infection. Fungus can appear as white patches on the skin, or patches of fluff that look like white cotton. When you observe this on your axolotl, the more recommended course of action is to undergo a salt bath, as this will usually kill the fungus after a few days and let your axolotl get back to its happy and healthy old self.

Salt baths are given to sick axolotls with fungal infections. Fungus appears like cotton wool; white, fluffy and fuzzy. It can appear anywhere, but is most commonly seen around a wound or injury. This is a step-by-step guide on how to make a salt bath for your axolotl. A salt bath should be given twice a day, for 10 minutes at a time.

Salt baths are best done in conjunction with fridging, as this will slow your axolotl’s metabolism so the mold is unable to advance as quickly while you work on treatment.

How To Give An Axolotl a Salt Bath

Step 1: Preparation

• Remember that salt bathing is best done in conjunction with fridging, which slows metabolism and causes infections and fungus to spread more slowly. See our guide on how to fridge an axolotl.
• Mix your salt bath solution
• Fill a container of 1-2 litre capacity with dechlorinated water.
• Mix salt into your water at a rate of 2-3 teaspoons per litre

NOTE: Do not use table salt. You need to use a non-iodized salt such as sea salt, rock salt, or aquarium salt. Also, if you use a finer grain salt, you’ll have more salt per teaspoon as smaller grains means less air between them. For smaller grain salt you can use a bit closer to 2 teaspoons, for larger grain closer to 3.

• Refrigerate your solution to make sure it is the same temperature as the water your fridged axolotl is in. This will avoid harmful temperature shock when you salt bathe it.

Step 2: The Salt Bath

• Remove your axolotl’s fridging container and your pre-mixed salt bath solution from the refrigerator. Shake up the salt solution a bit to make sure the salt is fully dissolved.
• Fill your salt bath tub, and gently move your axolotl from it’s fridging container to the salt bath container.
• Set a timer for 10-15 minutes

NOTE: If you leave your axolotl in the salt solution for too long, it can cause great harm such as bleeding, skin shedding, or damage to gills. Do not forget about your timer.

• After your timer has gone off remove your axolotl from the water. Put it back in its fridging container and return it to the refrigerator. Remember to follow proper fridging procedure for water changes.
• You should repeat the salt bathing procedure every 12 hours (so morning and night) until the fungus disappears, and an extra 2-3 days afterwards for safety.
• It is not advised to keep up salt baths for longer than a week or two, so if the fungus persists past that point, you are best off seeking veterinary assistance

Step 3: Prepare Next Salt Bath

• Don’t forget to follow Step 1 and prepare/refrigerate a new salt bath in advance so you can continue uninterrupted treatment.

How to Properly Fridge an Axolotl

1. Place the axolotl in a tub (a plastic shoebox works well) of cool, dechlorinated water (Prime is a good conditioner). The tub should ideally be filled to 1″ or so from the top. The axolotl needs enough water to completely turn around and not be sticking out of the water, but not so much that picking up the tub water sloshes out easily when transported. Bonus points for adding a plastic plant for comfort.
2. Set the fridge temperature to the warmest setting to prevent the axolotl from getting too cold. Please keep in mind that some food does not store as well at this temperature. The ideal temperature for this treatment is between 6 -13 C.
3. Put the tub in the fridge. To fridge an axolotl, they should be placed in the warmest part of the fridge near the crispers.
4. Check it daily to feed & keep clean. Test the ammonia level to determine if a water change is needed. It can be useful to have 2 tubs of water. One tub is filled with clean dechlorinated water and left in the fridge to reach the same temperature of the tub the axolotl is in. When it is time for a water change, the axolotl can be carefully transferred to the clean tub, the old tub water disposed of and replaced with clean water that has been dechlorinated (and medicated if needed). Due to the lowered output of ammonia at cold temperatures, as well as the axolotl possibly going off food, a full water change may be required anywhere from daily to every 3 days. A turkey baster can be used to remove solid waste or uneaten food. Food should be offered daily. If the axolotl does not eat the food, it should be removed within 20 minutes and not left to rot under any circumstance.
5. Leave the tub in the fridge for up to 3 weeks. Generally, 7 days is sufficient to determine if tubbing is benefiting the axolotl. In most cases, axolotls should not be fridged beyond 3 weeks, as they begin to shut down important physiological processes such as digestion.
6. Remove the tub from the fridge when the lotl has improved. The water should slowly be acclimated to room temperature before returning the axolotl to its aquarium. It can be useful to place the tub in a cooler area first for a while to adjust slowly. Rapid fluctuations in temperature – especially going from cold to warm – should be avoided if possible.